Discovering Devon’s Secret Shores: A Weekend in Bigbury-on-Sea & Hope Cove
Forget the crowded harbours and packed resorts. We went in search of the real South Devon – a land of tidal islands, sea tractors, and hidden coves – and we found it on a spectacular weekend exploring the stunning shores of Bigbury-on-Sea and Hope Cove.
Nestled in the stunning South West of England, Devon is a county of dramatic contrasts. Bordered by Cornwall to the west, Somerset to the north-east, and with a sliver of a border with Dorset to the south-east, it’s a region that demands exploration. To give you a sense of its scale, Devon’s 6,707 square kilometres make it slightly larger than Palestine and a staggering twenty times the size of Malta! While its capital, Exeter, is a vibrant city, Devon’s true magic lies in its spectacular coastline along the English Channel.
Most visitors flock to the famous honeypots of Torquay and Dartmouth, but we were determined to uncover a quieter piece of the Devonshire dream. On a glorious September weekend, we ventured further south to the pristine shores of Bigbury-on-Sea and the picture-perfect Hope Cove.
The Journey: An Adventure in Itself
Getting to this coastal paradise is part of the experience. The quickest route from the north is to take the M5 motorway to Exeter, then follow the A38 or A380 southwest. But the real Devon reveals itself once you turn off the main roads. Be prepared for a network of wonderfully narrow, hedge-lined lanes where pulling into a passing place to let an oncoming car by becomes a familiar ritual. Consider it a quintessential Devonshire dance! You’ll be lucky to maintain 40 mph, but that’s the point – it forces you to slow down and soak in the views.
A word of warning: if you’re considering the more coastal route via the M3, be aware that progress slows considerably after the New Forest. Without continuous motorways, your travel time becomes dependent on the charming but busy country roads. Our top tip? Always build in extra time for the journey – the destination is worth any delay!
Bigbury-on-Sea & The Enchanting Burgh Island
Bigbury-on-Sea itself is a charming, typical seaside village, but its crown jewel is the iconic Burgh Island. This tidal island is the stuff of adventure stories. At low tide, you can simply walk across the sandy causeway to the island and hike up to the summit for breathtaking views. The excitement comes from the tide – time your visit wrong, and the sea reclaims its path, leaving you stranded!
But fear not, for Devon has a wonderfully quirky solution: a legendary sea tractor ferries passengers back and forth through the waves for a mere £2. It’s an experience in itself! On the island, you’ll find a cosy pub, but the real showstopper is the magnificent Art Deco Burgh Island Hotel. A former 1920s haunt of Agatha Christie and Noël Coward, its glamorous façade is a sight to behold. While entry is reserved for guests (and with room rates being exceptionally exclusive, you’d need a very special occasion to stay), it’s a fantastic photo opportunity.
Hope Cove: A Hidden Gem
From one beauty to another, we then drove to the utterly captivating Hope Cove. This was the highlight of our trip – a serene, haven split into two parts: a small, sheltered inner harbour with colourful fishing boats and a wider bay open to the sea. It felt a world away from the crowds..
A crucial piece of advice for the journey: if you take the scenic shortcut via Aveton Gifford, you must check the tide times. The road running alongside the River Avon is completely submerged under 1.5 metres of water at high tide! However, navigating this route when the tide is out is a thrilling drive through a landscape of shimmering mudflats and creeks, offering some of the most beautiful vistas we saw all weekend.
A Lunch to Remember: The Lobster Pod Bistro
All this exploration builds an appetite, and we had our hearts set on a classic Devonshire seafood feast. We struck gold at the Lobster Pod Bistro. Their signature shellfish platter for two (excellently priced at around £40) was nothing short of spectacular. Piled high with the freshest mussels, crab, prawns, and more, it was a true taste of the ocean. Every element was perfectly prepared and served with crisp, fresh salads. The portion was incredibly generous, easily satisfying two hungry adults. Coupled with friendly, attentive service, it was a lunch worthy of a five-star review.
After our magnificent meal, we wandered down to the pier and ambled through the tiny village. The streets, lined with charming little shops and inviting pubs, offered the perfect, peaceful end to our day.
Our weekend in South Devon was a beautiful reminder that beyond the well-trodden paths lie adventures defined by tidal rhythms, quirky sea tractors, and hidden coves where the only crowds are the seabirds. We’ll certainly be back to answer the call of the tide.
Have you discovered any hidden gems in South Devon?
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