Spring in Bohemia – Travel notes, food and more

A Bohemian Rhapsody: Glass, Grit, and Golden Beer in the Czech Countryside

At the tail end of April, we seized the chance for a wonderfully quick escape to the Czech Republic. While the world rightly flocks to the stunning capital of Prague, we were drawn to the wilder, lesser-known corners of the country. Our destination? The captivating Nord-East, a part of the historic Bohemia region, which promises dramatic landscapes and enchanting local traditions.

The sprawling Bohemian region itself makes up a whopping two-thirds of the Czech Republic, and our itinerary was packed with its finest offerings. We were on a mission to explore a traditional glass and crystal factory, sample the wares at a local brewery (let’s be honest, Czech beer is legendary for a reason!), lose ourselves hiking in the Adrspach mountains, and see what other gems we could uncover.

Camping Near Trutnov: Our Lakeside Retreat

Before setting off, we found and booked a spot at Camping Dolce Vita, nestled near the town of Trutnov (Dolce Vita, Oblanov 37, 54101 Trutnov). The campsite offers charming apartments in cottages dotted around a serene lake.

Tucked away about two kilometres from the main road, it was a peaceful haven that was still easy to find. While our cottage was a little rustic and showed its age, it was fantastic value for money. The real star was the location itself – tranquil, incredibly beautiful, and offering the perfect, relaxing atmosphere after a day of exploration.

National Park Adrspach – Teplice Rocks: A Landscape from a Fairytale

Fuelled by excitement, we headed to the National Park Adrspach the very next day. This area, part of the Giant Mountains, has been famed since Roman times and even before for its raw, natural beauty. The park is the guardian of the truly spectacular Adrspach-Teplice Rocks, also known as the ‘Adrspach Rock Town’ (or Adrspasske skaly).

We had dedicated a whole day to this adventure, and it did not disappoint.

Bohemian Paradise: Climbing Giants with a Four-Legged Friend

As we had our trusty dog with us, we were absolutely chuffed to find that the park is dog-friendly! Just remember to purchase a small ticket for your furry companion, too.

The rocks themselves are nothing short of breathtaking. These ancient sandstone giants are a magnet for rock climbers, and we spotted a few brave souls perched triumphantly at the summits. It’s no wonder this area has earned the nickname ‘Bohemian Paradise’ – it feels like stepping into another world.

The main entrance is near Teplice, but the real Rock Town begins a pleasant two-kilometre walk in. Before diving into the labyrinth of stone, we took a detour to a nearby lake, soaking in the stunning reflections of the cliffs in the calm water. The park is crisscrossed with excellent trails, and within the rock city itself, many of the pathways are even asphalted, making for a surprisingly smooth walk.

A particular highlight awaits those with a bit of energy. If you tackle the steep, rocky trail up the hill and don’t mind a short queue, you’re rewarded with a magical, short boat trip through a narrow gorge. You need to buy a separate ticket before boarding, but it’s an absolute must-do – a wonderfully unique way to experience the rocks from a different perspective.

As a protected national nature reserve, guided tours are available. For the experience, the price is a steal: an adult ticket is only about €2.50, with child and family tickets equally reasonable. Our dog’s ticket was just over a euro – a small price for such a grand day out.

A Hearty Dinner at a Local Gem

After a full day of wandering through this geological wonderland, we made our way back to camp. But first, a well-deserved supper in Trutnov at the guesthouse Penzion Porici, just on the outskirts of the town centre.

This was a quintessentially family-friendly restaurant, the perfect spot for a tasty, unhurried meal in a cosy and quiet atmosphere. In fact, we enjoyed it so much that we returned a second night! Once again, we were completely satisfied with their delicious food and impeccable service. It was the perfect, comforting end to our Bohemian adventures.