The Painted Rocks of Tafraout: A Vibrant Valley Adventure
Nestled in a vast, sun-baked valley near the Moroccan town of Tafraout lies a surreal and spectacular sight – an entire landscape of boulders daubed in brilliant, contrasting colours. Known simply as the Painted Rocks, this open-air gallery is one of the region’s most unique and unmissable attractions.
This extraordinary art installation was the brainchild of Belgian artist Jean Vérame, who transformed the valley in 1984. Using vibrant paints, he turned the natural granite canvas into a work of art, much like his projects in Egypt, Chad, and France.
Before our trip, we’d read a slew of negative reviews online. The common complaint was that the famous rocks had lost their lustre, faded by relentless sun, weathered by erosion, and scuffed by the local goats who use them as a playground. We are thrilled to report that in 2020, we found a completely different scene! The rocks had been freshly revitalised, their colours bold and vivid against the dusty valley floor, with no signs of the wear we’d been warned about. It was an absolute feast for the eyes.
Finding the Painted Rocks: Your Guide to the Journey
Reaching this colourful valley is an adventure in itself, and the mode of transport you choose can shape your entire experience. All directions below start from the centre of Tafraout, near the main souk.
By Car: The Effortless Expedition
This is the quickest and easiest way to get there. From the town centre, follow the R104 road towards the Tafraout Valley. Keep your eyes peeled for the Aday Mosque on your right. About 1.5 miles (2.5 km) after you pass it, take a left turn. Follow this main road for roughly 3 miles (5 km), and you’ll spot the technicolour rocks sprawling across the landscape on your left. There’s a clear turn-off that leads directly to the site.
You’ll find ample space to park, and from there, you’re free to wander to your heart’s content. The area is perfect for exploring on foot, and you can even drive a bit closer on smaller tracks to discover different clusters of painted formations.
By Bike: The Explorer’s Choice
If you’re staying in Tafraout for more than a day, hiring a bike is a fantastic option. As the map shows, you can cycle south towards the village of Agrd Odad, turn right to pass through it, and then continue on the path leading directly into the valley.
Cycling is arguably the best way to experience the Painted Rocks. The artwork is spread across several areas, and on two wheels, you have the freedom to effortlessly zip between different formations, discovering hidden splashes of colour at your own pace.
On Foot: The Ultimate Adventure
While we tried all the options, hiking was, without a doubt, our favourite. We loved it so much we did it twice! There are two fantastic routes, both offering very different experiences.
- The Route via Agrd Odad: This is a more straightforward walk to the rocks. We found this path perfect for the journey there, building anticipation as we approached the colourful valley.
- The Mountain Trail: For the return trip, we highly recommend this more challenging hiking path that starts in southern Tafraout. It leads you up into the surrounding mountain ranges, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the entire painted valley below. Be warned: it’s a proper uphill trek on the way back to town! While hardy cyclists on mountain bikes could attempt this route (street bikes are not suitable), be prepared to dismount and push in sections.
Our perfect day combined both routes to get there, for a spectacular, elevated return journey.
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