Isle of Skye in Scotland
Isle of Skye in Scotland

Isle of Skye in Scotland

Scotland and the Untamed Beauty of Its Islands

While living in London, I often chatted with friends about the Scottish islands, especially the legendary Isle of Skye. Almost everyone had heard of it, yet remarkably few had made the journey to this magnificent island in Scotland’s north-west. Perhaps it’s the distance – over a thousand kilometres from the capital – that gives pause. But the true reason, I suspect, is Skye’s formidable reputation. Its nature is gloriously unpredictable – you might be blessed with a sublime, sunny holiday, or you might be thrillingly challenged by the elements every step of the way.

Relaxing sheep on Skye
Relaxing sheep on Skye

We decided to embrace that challenge for our early summer break. Choosing early June for our trip, we hoped to catch the island in a benevolent mood. Having now visited Skye twice, I can confidently say it is one of Europe’s most breathtaking destinations. Its magic lies in the warmth of its people, the raw, dramatic landscapes, and the sheer depth of experience it offers.

A Potted History

This history of resilience is etched into the very landscape of Skye – a place that feels proudly apart, even today. Scotland and England were united under one crown in 1603 when King James VI of Scotland also became James I of England. This union was formalised by the Acts of Union in 1707, creating the Kingdom of Great Britain with its parliament in Westminster. It’s a point of pride that, despite centuries of conflict, Scotland was never truly conquered by its southern neighbour. In 1999, Scots voted to re-establish a devolved Scottish Parliament in Edinburgh, which holds significant powers over domestic affairs like education and taxation.

Arrival in Scotland

Our first adventure began in June 2009, touching down at Glasgow Prestwick Airport on a budget Ryanair flight. We had pre-booked a hire car through the Economy Car Rentals website. A shuttle van collected us within 15 minutes, and a short journey later we were at the Arnold Clark office in Prestwick. Within half an hour of landing, the paperwork was complete, and we were on the road, brimming with anticipation.

Our destination was the village of Portnalong on the Isle of Skye – a nearly 380-kilometre drive north. The name, I’m told, derives from Gaelic and means “the harbour,” a fitting start for our island escape.

First Impressions of Skye

For centuries, Skye was dominated by two great clans: the MacDonalds and the MacLeods (fans of the film Highlander will recognise the latter). My initial impression of the Highlands was one of awe – landscapes that were both wildly beautiful and intimately scaled. It shares the epic quality of Norway’s fjords, but here everything feels more concentrated; you don’t need to drive for hours to be rewarded with staggering views. And, of course, there are sheep – everywhere, even nonchalantly claiming the roads as their own!

Skye marina
Skye marina

We arrived on Skye in the late afternoon, just in time to see the sun setting behind the silhouetted hills as we crossed the bridge from the mainland. En route, we made an essential stop at Eilean Donan Castle, one of Scotland’s most iconic and photographed fortresses. Perched romantically on a small tidal island, it perfectly set the stage for our journey.

Finding Our Home on the Island

It was almost midnight when we finally found our accommodation: The Croft Bunkhouse, Bothies & Wigwams in Portnalong (Tel: 07834 827524). A word of advice: finding specific addresses on Skye for the first time can be a charming, if lengthy, puzzle – allow extra time! The hosts, Billy and Kara, had already retired but had thoughtfully left keys and a welcome note for us. Our bunkhouse, with its cosy kitchen, was the perfect, warm haven for our family of four after an exhilarating but long day. Note that they typically require a minimum three-night stay, which we were glad to have booked. Also, a good offline map or sat-nav is invaluable, as mobile signal can be patchy.

Saying Farewell to Skye

After several days of unforgettable, sometimes blustery exploration, it was time to leave. We returned to our bunkhouse for one last night, exhausted but deeply content. The next destination calling us was the popular outdoor hub of Fort William.

One of tiny waterfalls on Skye
One of tiny waterfalls on Skye

We faced a classic Scottish travel choice for our return: the bridge near Kyleakin or the ferry from Armadale to Mallaig. Having arrived by bridge, we opted for the ferry for a change of scenery. The driving distance is comparable from central Skye (roughly 180km via bridge vs. 150 km including the ferry), but the ferry journey is an experience in itself. The port of Armadale is delightful, and we enjoyed wandering its shores, soaking in the final views of Skye and capturing some last photographs before sailing across the water with our hearts full of the island’s wild spirit.

P.S. For the details of our adventures hiking the Trotternish peninsula, discovering Skye seals, and hunting for the Skye skins, read more about us exploring Skye!


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