An Unforgettable Road Trip to Montenegro: From Dramatic Peaks to the Azure Coast
In early June, our friends and we embarked on an exhilarating road trip to Montenegro. Our mission was to explore the wild beauty of Durmitor National Park and the stunning Adriatic coast. The excitement was palpable, not only because it was our first time in the country, but also because we were visiting a nation still fresh with independence.
On 3rd June 2006, the Montenegrin Parliament declared independence, marking a new chapter after its history as part of Yugoslavia. It was fascinating to witness a young country, with a territory of less than 14,000 square kilometres and a population under a million, carving out its own identity.
Arrival in Montenegro: A Welcome of Cleanliness and Calm
Our journey was an epic overland adventure, crossing through Lithuania, Poland, Slovakia, and Hungary before entering Montenegro from Serbia. We crossed the newly established border controls, a tangible reminder of the country’s recent sovereignty. Our first stop was a petrol station just inside Montenegro, where we were immediately struck by the impressive cleanliness and order – a wonderful and welcoming first impression.
The large rest area, set against a backdrop of stunning landscapes, offered a perfect spot to decompress after the long drive through Serbia. As late afternoon approached, we realised our spontaneity meant we had no hotel booking.
With sunset on the horizon, we continued our drive from Mojkovac to Žabljak, where we stumbled upon the Motel “Ravnjak.” Nestled at the 18th-kilometre mark on the Mojkovac-Žabljak road, its separate bungalows were the perfect refuge. The following morning, we were treated to a truly excellent breakfast. Even if you don’t need a room, I’d highly recommend stopping by just for a meal!
Exploring Durmitor National Park: The Majesty of Black Lake
Our primary destination in the park was the magnificent Crno Jezero, or Black Lake. Before reaching the lake, we explored Žabljak, the highest urban settlement in the Balkans at 1,450 metres. The town is dramatically surrounded by 23 peaks, each over 2,200 metres high – a breathtaking introduction to the region’s scale.
Durmitor is home to 18 glacial lakes, but Crno Jezero is undoubtedly the crown jewel: the largest and deepest. Nestled at the foot of the Medjed massif, this stunning lake is a product of ancient glaciers and is composed of two interconnected halves – the Big Lake and the Small Lake.
A well-maintained 3.5-kilometre walking path circles the water, and though we only covered a portion, every step was a delight. The final kilometre to the lake is car-free, but the asphalt trail makes for an easy and pleasant approach. After more than three hours of soaking in the serene views and fresh mountain air, we reluctantly moved on, eager to see more of Durmitor’s wonders.
The Tara River Canyon: A Colossal Natural Wonder
Our next stop was the iconic Đurđevića Tara Bridge, a symbol of the mighty Tara River. This bridge spans the incredible Tara River Canyon, the longest and deepest canyon in Montenegro and Europe, and the second-largest in the world after the Grand Canyon! Stretching for up to 82 kilometres and plunging to a depth of 1,300 metres at its deepest point, the scale is simply mind-boggling!
A part of Durmitor National Park, the canyon has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1980. The bridge itself is a feat of engineering, built between 1937 and 1940 and later rebuilt after WWII. At 365 metres long, with five majestic arches and a roadway perched 172 metres above the turquoise river, it is undoubtedly one of the most dramatic and impressive sights in all of Europe.
An Off-Road Mountain Adventure
Seeking more adventure, we decided to take a mountain pass towards the coast. What followed was a thrilling and challenging off-road experience! The road was a mix of rough asphalt and raw earth, often covered in melting snow. Our sense of achievement peaked when we reached the Sedlo pass at 1,907 metres.
However, the adventure took an unexpected turn just a few kilometres from the crossroads: our path was blocked by enormous snowdrifts, still three to four metres deep even on 12th June! Heavy machinery was hard at work clearing the route. We learned it would take at least another full day to clear the entire section – a testament to the region’s harsh winters. After a brief, surreal chat with a local journalist reporting on the snow clearance, we accepted our fate, turned around, and began our journey towards the capital, Podgorica.
The Reward: The Sun-Drenched Adriatic Coast
Later that afternoon, after the mountain chill, we were greeted by the glorious sight of the Adriatic Sea. We wound our way along the coast to our final destination for the week: the charming town of Dobrota, near Kotor. We had booked a guest house here, our base for a week of bliss.
The promise of sunny beaches, explorations of the surrounding Bay of Kotor, and indulging in delicious local specialities was the perfect reward after our intrepid mountain exploits. Our Montenegrin adventure had offered the perfect blend of raw wilderness and coastal serenity.
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