Escaping to Paradise Valley: A Mountain Hideaway & An Arid Canyon Hike
After a few surreal days in a rapidly locking-down Agadir, we were desperate to escape the growing tension. Our destination was the foothills near Tizgui, where we had stumbled upon an incredible bargain: a room at the Hotel Restaurant Tifrit (coordinates: 30.599090, -9.497355). This mountain refuge was nestled just a stone’s throw from the legendary Paradise Valley, promising the solace we craved.
With Morocco heading towards a total COVID-19 lockdown, our instincts screamed that freedom and anonymity would be found not in a bustling city, but in the sparsely populated reaches of the High Atlas. And as we would soon discover, our instincts were absolutely right.
A Mountain Refuge at Hotel Tifrit
The hotel was a charming and welcome surprise. We found ourselves in the company of a small band of fellow travellers from France and the Netherlands who, like us, were caught in the global travel chaos. Having arrived weeks earlier, they were now anxiously awaiting news from their embassies, hoping for a rescue flight home.
Heeding our survival instincts, we had stocked up on food and, most importantly, water in Agadir. The two-hour drive to the hotel was stunning, winding its way into ever more dramatic and remote landscapes. Our room was spacious and opened onto a breathtaking view of the rugged, sun-baked peaks that encircled us – it was the perfect basecamp for the adventures that lay ahead.
The Quest for Paradise Valley
After settling in and arranging a much-anticipated dinner with the hotel, the next day we drove roughly 5 kilometres to our chosen starting point (coordinates: 30.596774, -9.522854). A large, convenient, and utterly deserted car park marked the beginning of our quest.
A Quick Navigation Tip: While the general information at the trailhead is helpful for orientation, take the stated timings and distances with a pinch of salt! We almost went astray immediately. After crossing a small hill from the car park, you’ll descend onto a rural track (approx. coordinates: 30.594959, -9.523113). Turn left here. Follow this track until you see a sign pointing down a path to the right for Paradise Valley (approx. coordinates: 30.593968, -9.520802). This is your turn-off!
The Hike: An Arid But Beautiful Canyon
From there, the path leads mostly downhill until you reach a wide, dry riverbed (coordinates: 30.588606, -9.526019). You then follow the river valley eastwards for about a mile to reach the hike’s crowning glory: a stunning, sculpted canyon. The silence here was profound, broken only by the crunch of our footsteps. It was the perfect spot to pause, marvel at the towering rock walls, and enjoy a well-earned snack.
Our most crucial piece of advice for any hike in Morocco: carry more water than you think you’ll need! We had 1.5 litres each, which was just enough, but we were consciously rationing it on the return trek. A surplus would have made the experience far more comfortable.
Driven by curiosity, we ventured a little further past the main canyon, climbing about half a mile uphill to a viewpoint. While the vistas were pleasant, the real magic lay in the heart of the valley itself, and I probably wouldn’t do the extra climb again.
In total, we walked about seven kilometres. The meandering path and relentless sun made it feel longer, but every step was worth it. If you look at pictures of Paradise Valley online, you’ll often see deep, turquoise pools. We were met with a different scene – the spring of 2020 was exceptionally dry, and in March, the riverbed was a beautiful, stark landscape of bare rock and dust. Visiting later in the year would promise a completely different, water-filled experience!
A Satisfying Conclusion
This was our first proper taste of hiking in Morocco, and we had no idea it was merely a warm-up. By the end of May, we had clocked up an astonishing 55 miles on foot across the country’s various mountainous regions!
That evening, we returned to Hotel Tifrit weary but exhilarated, our muscles aching in the best way possible. The dinner that awaited us was simple, hearty, and incredibly welcome, representing fantastic value for money. After settling our bill the next morning, we were ready to continue our unexpected odyssey to our next destination: the market town of Taroudant located some 90 kilometres to the east from Agadir.
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