Agadir Inoumar – Travel notes, food and more

Beyond Agadir: Discovering the Ancient Agadir Inoumar, a Berber Fortified Granary

Many travellers are familiar with Morocco‘s coastal gem, Agadir. But did you know ‘agadir’ is a word you’ll find scattered across the Moroccan atlas? In the Berber language, it means a fortified wall or enclosure, and historically, these agadirs were collective granaries and storehouses, safeguarding a community’s wealth – grain, oil, documents, and valuables – from rival tribes. They are stunning relics of a fascinating communal past.

While many of these ancient structures have crumbled into memory, one in particular, Agadir Inoumar, was highly recommended to us by locals. Intrigued, we set off on a road trip into the foothills, with only vague directions to guide us. A word of caution: Google Maps can be notoriously unreliable in rural Morocco – so much so that I attempted to correct the route upon my return, though my cartographic efforts were, sadly, rejected.

Our visit to Agadir Inoumar was so captivating it sent us down a rabbit hole of research upon our return. We highly recommend reading up on these “Berber Granaries” to fully appreciate the history before you go.

The Journey to Agadir Inoumar

This particular ‘agadir’ is located near the village of Afaïane (use coordinates 30.163274, -9.108826 for precise navigation), Agadir Inoumar is now blessedly accessible via a recently built, excellent road.

If you’re driving from Taroudant, the route is straightforward with one notable adventure: you must cross a dry riverbed near the Ciments du Maroc plant (coordinates: 30.196085, -9.176542). Normally, this is a simple drive across gravel, but beware – after heavy rain, it can become impassable as the bridge was washed away some years ago. For a guaranteed safe journey, especially after inclement weather, take the route from Agadir via Biougra and Imi Mqourn (R105). This road is always secure and bypasses the river crossing entirely.

Exploring the Ancient Granary

Upon arrival, you can leave your car in a small, unofficial pull-in (parking coordinates: 30.166697, -9.107983). The agadir itself remains hidden from view, building the anticipation for a breathtaking reveal. A short, 600-metre walk downhill to the south-west brings you to the site, and what a sight it is!

Perched dramatically on the hillside, Agadir Inoumar is a magnificent labyrinth of stone. A significant portion has been lovingly restored, allowing you to truly appreciate its scale and complexity. We were met by a friendly local guide who, while he doesn’t speak English, enthusiastically explained the granary’s history and function. Even with our rudimentary French, we were able to grasp the incredible story of this place.

A small entry and guiding fee of around 50 MAD per person is customary and well worth it. The money contributes directly to the ongoing preservation of this special site. They’ve even installed a surprisingly well-equipped toilet, a modern convenience that feels almost miraculous in such a historic setting!

For those keen to learn more, the custodians of the site have set up an informative website – search for “Agadir Inoumar” to find details in English before your visit.

Venturing off the beaten track to discover Agadir Inoumar was the unforgettable highlight of our trip. It’s more than just an old building. It’s a key to understanding the ingenious and collaborative spirit of Berber culture. And this is just the beginning! Morocco is a land of endless surprises, from the tranquil waters of Paradise Valley to the artist’s palette of the Painted Rocks. Ready for more? Explore my blog for the full series of travel notes and let your Moroccan journey begin.