Sevid in Dalmatia

Sevid was our destination for a summer vacation on the Adriatic coast in Croatia. I already wrote before that we arrived at Zadar airport and spent a couple of days in a small town Grebastica and on the way to Sevid we stopped in Dalmatian town Primosten.

Sevid is great place for quiet vacation, the nearest town with an active tourist life is Trogir, which is about 20 kilometres away. The beaches of Sevid, of course, have many people like everywhere else in Croatia, but they are not overcrowded. People go there with their private cars, because the village is located a short but not walking distance from the D8 road, there is no motorway nearby, and it is difficult or even impossible for tourist buses to pass through narrow local roads.

Rocky Croatian beach
Rocky Croatian beach

Another peculiarity, why there are no bigger hotels in Sevid is that the village does not have a central water supply. Houses use their own boreholes for water, but in many places water is even supplied by vehicles in water tanks. We lived in a villa that had its own well, but the landlady suggested that it is better to buy drinking water in a store – just in case to be on safe side.
In the part of the village located by the sea, there is one shop, one pizzeria and one (expensive) restaurant. It is not much, but it is quite enough if you have your own transport to go to the city when necessary. We had already bought everything important on the way to Sevid stopping in Šibenik, where there are large shopping centres and you can buy practically everything you need.

Sibenik is located 45 kilometres from Sevid, the journey takes less than an hour. The city is interesting with a rich cultural heritage, episodes of the Game of Thrones series were also filmed there. If you’re around, Sibenik is worth a stop.

The small villages have another good thing – every morning, local bakery products are delivered near to your doorstep, so we could eat freshly baked croissants and other similar products for breakfast.

Roadside restaurants

From time to time we also went to explore the surrounding area. One of the most interesting things seemed to be the large grill ovens at the roadside restaurants.

Every morning a lamb, piglet, or goat is impaled on one or more skewers, well-roasted for lunch, and offered to passing riders. During holiday season it is better to book a table in advance, because there are a lot of people who want to eat. It is interesting that meat is not sold in portions but in kilograms. For example, order a kilogram for three people and in addition order portions of side dishes.

It is also possible to order meat to take away, what we also did, so that we did not have to prepare lunch ourselves.

On weekdays, only pork is usually offered, but lamb is roasted on weekends. It must be said that all kinds of meets were very tasty – they really know how to roast it. The chefs said that they do not raise livestock themselves, but buy from farmers in nearby mountain villages.

Boat hire

If you are at the sea, one of the options difficult and even unwise to give up is a trip to the sea by hired boat.

Motorboat trip
Motorboat trip

We found a phone number right on the beach board advertising where you can rent a boat and called that number. We agreed that we will take the boat for half a day, which also means half the price. The deal was agreed and the next morning around ten we were already sitting in our motorboat.

Traveling by boat has one major benefit – you can drop anchor almost anywhere near the shore and swim. No need to worry about the sea urchins that are common on the rocky beaches of Croatia (for this reason, we always used the water slippers we brought, which protect quite well from accidental injuries).

We also decided to go out into the open sea and went to the nearby island. We found a nice beach there and had a great time before heading back.

Adriatic sea urchin
Adriatic sea urchin

Looking at the map, we travelled only about six kilometres all together, but it felt much more. Swaying in the waves of the sea and humming from the cargo ship, whose path we would had to cross was fun.

It should also be mentioned that the locals left a very pleasant impression. Returning home I noticed that I had left a pair of sunglasses with a relatively large amount of money on the boat. When we slowly went back to the villa, the guy with the scooter caught us up and returned the left property – many thanks to him for that!

Croatian towns Rogoznica and Primosten

The city beach is considered one of the ten best beaches (depending on source) in Croatia and even has stationary sun umbrellas for holidaymakers (such thing is not very common in Croatia). The surrounding region is famous for its wine, and there is a vineyard right near the town. which is even included in the UNESCO world cultural heritage list.

Croatian town Primosten
Croatian town Primosten

Just outside the city on the other side of the bay is another interesting sight, the statue of Our Lady of Loreto, which can be seen from the city if you have climbed to a higher place. We did climb on the hill of St. George’s Church and saw the statue from there.
Walking around the town was nice, especially the part of it that is on the island. There are many cafes, restaurants and small shops – as usual in a real resort town.

Statue of Our Lady of Loreto

Lady Loreto is associated with Catholicism, it is a statue of the Virgin Mary that was found in a holy house, but not about religion here. The drive to the statue on a rocky road was interesting, the statue itself was quite impressive, but the best view around was from the very top of the hill where the statue is located.

Croatian beach
Croatian beach

The weather was brutally hot when we got there, but fortunately there is also a bar with shady space and you can buy ice cream there (I find the name a bit funny – Madonna’s bar and shop). It is really up to you how much time to spend there and observe the surrounding landscape. There is a good (asphalted) free parking lot next to the object. From there there are a couple of hundreds of metres to climb to the statue.

Rogoznica and fish

We drove to Rogoznica next day after arriving to Sevid. That is another small town by the sea, however the purpose of our trip was very practical this time – to buy some seafood for lunch and dinner.

Selling fish in Croatian fishing farm
Selling fish in Croatian fishing farm

In the centre of the city there is a market where both agricultural products and seafood are sold. We were unlucky because the seafood season had not started in mid-June, so all the fish stalls were completely empty.

Locals told that something might arrive in the market in a week’s or two time.

We didn’t bother much and took the opportunity to at least buy local tomatoes, potatoes, strawberries and other tasty things.

We had researched before that there must be a fish farm in the nearby area where seabass and similar fish are grown. Without thinking much, we went to the other side of the peninsula to ‘catch fish’ ourselves. The farm is called Klismar ribogojilište Zečevo, I can only guess that it is something about catching fish.

The ride was quite extreme. One lane that can be used in both directions, the road is rocky and unpaved, not to mention the bends, serpentines and steep slopes. And all this within just a few kilometres drive. However, this event turned out to be a complete success.

When we arrived, we found a shed where a couple of local individuals were staying with some fish boxes in the stall. The fish were very fresh, kept in boxes on ice. I don’t remember the price, but it was really fair deal, so we paid, collected our purchase and headed back to the place of residence with a small detour through the outskirts of the already mentioned Rogoznica town.

I should add that we decided to grill fish for dinner and it turned out very tasty!

Croatian town Omis

Seaside town Omis

Omis is a small town in Croatia at the estuary of the Cetina River into the sea, about 25 kilometres (30 minutes) south of Split.

Omis is known for being used by pirates around the fourteenth century. The river is surrounded by mountains and was a good place to hide to rob the sea-going merchant ships that operated between Dubrovnik, Venice and Naples in Italy.

Omis bay marina
Omis bay marina

Not only the ability to hide played a role, but also the fact that sea vessels could not navigate the river. The pirates had even built a fortress and concluded an agreement with the surrounding villages on non-aggression and ‘cooperation’.

There isn’t much to do in the town itself, although it has its own charm and a large parking lot, which is essential when traveling by car. However, we did not go to Omis to look for pirates – the purpose of the trip was to ride one of the longest zipline tracks in Europe. The track consists of seven descents of different lengths with a total cableway length of more than two kilometres.

Zipline

The cableways are divided into eight sections, the longest of which is 700 meters, while the others are much shorter. The good news is that each run is different – one steeper and faster, another flatter, but with better views around. The whole event takes place at an average height of 150 metres above sea level.

The price of the attraction is 400 Croatian Kuna (about 45 euros) per person, but children under the age of six are not allowed to participate. It should be noted that it is not possible to leave children nearby, as you will be taken to the starting point in the mountains and later collected to go back to the town from another location.

It all starts in the town centre, where Zipline Omis Croatia has an office. Before that we left the car in the parking lot about a five-minute walk from the office. When we arrived, we had to sign documents and pay (payment can only be made in cash in local currency, but from January 2023, according to the latest news in the summer of 2022, Croatia will join the euro zone, so the inconvenience of currency exchange will also disappear).

View from zipline
View from zipline

After a short wait, while all those who wanted to go to zipline gathered (about 12 people), we went to the parking lot nearby, where two buses with instructors and equipment were waiting for us. Each group is accompanied by two instructors, the first of whom goes to the destination and the second as the last of the group joins everyone else for the next ride.

When we went up the hill, everyone was given equipment and about half an hour was spent on briefing and test drives on a 20-meter-long training track. Those who failed the short practice run the first time were given the opportunity to repeat until they did succeed. After all that, we went further up the mountain to the first real ride.

The first ride was the longest and the view was spectacular. The good news is that it is relatively flat section and the speed is not high. It’s a bit nerve-wracking that the wind moves the riders while riding across the canyon, but the view around is fantastic!

You can see everything else on the Zipline website. I can only add that the instructors were professionals and the whole event passed so quickly that one could only wonder where the time disappeared. After the ride, we all took pictures together and the buses took us back to the town centre.

Lunch near Omis

After a job well done, you need to also rest well. We asked the locals where we could eat and went to the recommended Restoran Radmanove Mlinice on the banks of the Cetina River, some five or six kilometres outside the town. In general, this place was something very similar to a recreation complex.

Rented boats with passengers and rafters with kayaks were going back and forth along the river. By the way, rafting is the second most popular form of entertainment in Omis area and agents offer rafting on the sides of the streets near their small shops.

Restaurant near Omis
Restaurant near Omis

The restaurant is impressive in size and the service is very fast. The prices are also very good; looking at what the actual demand is and the food offered, I even would expect being asked paying a little more.

After a good lunch, we went back to our home in Sevid using different route; we drove through the mountains. To sum up, the whole day was really successful!

The capital of Greece Athens

Greece

Greece is one of the countries I have been to many times, on business, leisure and in transit. However, I have never written about this country so far, so here not only about Athens, the capital of Greece, but also a little bit about Greece in general.

To be honest, there isn’t much that can be said about Greece that is unknown to everyone, so at least a few figures and a little bit of history.
Greece is located at the southern part of the Balkan Peninsula, covering an area of almost 132 thousand square kilometres. This is comparable to countries such as Bangladesh, Nepal, which are slightly larger than Greece and North Korea and Nicaragua, which are slightly smaller. Compared to the United States, Greece is two times smaller the size of the state of Colorado.

Greece owns 227 islands, of which at least 166 are inhabited. The largest Greek islands are Crete, Evia, Lesbos, Rhodes and Chios. The area of Crete is just over 8,000 square kilometres, larger than Palestine and slightly smaller than nearby Cyprus. Crete is 260 kilometres long and 12 to 60 kilometres wide.

According to 2020 data, a bit less than 11 million people live in Greece, of which more than half a million live in the central part of Athens.

The capital Athens

Athens is the capital of Greece and, like many other major cities, form a conglomerate of around three million people living in the area.

Athens is one of the oldest cities in the world, historians say it is about 3,400 years old. Names such as Plato and Aristotle are associated with Athens.

Athens is associated with such things as ancient temples, amphitheatres and, of course, the Acropolis. Athens has two UNESCO World Heritage Sites: the Acropolis of Athens and the Byzantine monastery of Daphne (Daphni or Daphne), which is much less well known than the Acropolis.

Parthenon in Athens
Parthenon in Athens

Acropolis

The Acropolis is a complex of buildings on the top of a cliff in the centre of Athens, the most famous object of the Acropolis is the Parthenon. The Parthenon is a temple (more precisely, its remains) that was built in honour of the Greek goddess Athena. The temple was completed more than 400 years BC.

Athena is the daughter of Zeus, one of the gods of Olympus, the goddess of wisdom and war. The Roman equivalent of Athens is Minerva, although Mars is more widely known as the god of Roman warfare.

The word acropolis means the highest point, as it actually is when you climb it. At the foot of the Acropolis you can find some parking lots if you are there with your own or rented car. We parked our car ate Rovertou Galli street 39 parking lot. And the climb is worth it – from above there is a fantastic view of the city.

Entrance to the Acropolis Museum is for fee. Tickets start at 12 euros and more, up to 80 euros for a of ancient Athens, both privately and in a group tours (I didn’t spent money on this, so cannot say if it’s worth it and any better than cheaper option).

Accommodation in Athens

We chose accommodation outside the city centre closer to the sea – Tropical Hotel, which is located a little more than ten kilometres southwest of the Acropolis.

Coast near Athens
Coast near Athens

In Google reviews I wrote about hotel that it is in a very convenient location, the rooms are clean and tidy, the staff is welcoming and breakfast is good. It should also be noted that we also were lucky to have a wonderful view towards the sea as our balcony was on that side of the hotel. Overall, a very good hotel at a reasonable price, especially when you need a place to stay for a short time.

One more thing I wanted to add about Athens. We tried to drive early in the morning and late in the evening, because driving around Athens during the day can be a nightmare, especially if you are in a busy populated area.

I remember that during another trip I was waiting for a bus quite long time, which did not arrive at all. In the end, I decided to walk on my own several kilometres and it paid off because traffic jams were heavy and many cars I left even behind.

Capital of Scotland Edinburgh

Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland

Edinburgh definitely is one of the most special places, at least for me personally. Not only because we have been living there for several years.

Although Edinburgh is the capital of Scotland, it is only the second largest city in Scotland, the largest being Glasgow. It is home to just over half a million people, although in summer the city’s population can even double during the touristic season.

Streets of Edinburgh Old Town
Streets of Edinburgh Old Town

The city hosts many different festivals throughout the summer, so tourists from all over the world come there to see those and even participate. In addition, Edinburgh’s Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Getting there

The Scots have done their best to make it easy to get to the city. At Edinburgh Airport, a variety of airlines live together in a friendly way. Prior to the pandemic, the airport handled almost 15 million passengers a year. For example, Riga, which is a city of similar size, accommodated only half of it (7.8 million passengers).

Getting from the airport to the city centre is very convenient. To get to the city centre, you can take a bus (airport shuttle) or a modern tram (Edinburgh has only one tram line operating from the city centre to the airport). The fastest is the AirLink bus (route No. 100), which has some other stops between the airport and the city centre.

Edinburgh can also be easily reached by flying to the nearby Glasgow Airport or the slightly more remote Aberdeen Airport (there are five much less important international airports in Scotland).

And of course, train and bus routes connect Edinburgh with many other British cities. I have also written separate blog about the road network in Scotland.

Places and things definitely worth seeing in Edinburgh

Even if you haven’t been to Scotland, you’ve probably heard words like Edinburgh Castle, the Old Town, the Royal Mile, Holyrood, Walter Scott and Arthur’s Seat. The good news is that most of Edinburgh’s attractions are relatively close together. In addition, there are many events in the city that are worth attending if you are lucky enough to be in the city at that time.

Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo

Undoubtedly, the Edinburgh Military Tattoo, which takes place every summer in the courtyard of Edinburgh Castle (in 2022 from August 5 to 27). Military orchestras from different countries take part in the show and delight the audience with military marches, marching and other passionate performances.

Admission to the event is quite expensive, ranging from £ 60 to over £ 600. The cheapest tickets theoretically cost £ 30, but it’s a small sector on the very edge of the arena. Tickets must be purchased well in advance, preferably several months before you decide to go there. In any case, if you’ve given away £ 60 for the show, you won’t feel overpaid after the grand event – it’s really worth seeing!

The Edinburgh Castle

Edinburgh Castle is certainly the most famous tourist destination in the capital, if not the whole of Scotland (mysterious Lake Loch Ness could compete with it).

Edinburgh Castle
Edinburgh Castle

Edinburgh Castle is on an ancient volcano and can be seen from a distance before you even enter the city. The top of the volcano has been inhabited since the Iron Age, but the royal castle has been located there since the 12th century. Until 1633, the castle was a royal residence, but since then it has also played an important role in Scottish history.

The castle is the most visited tourist destination in Scotland (over 2 million visitors a year) and the second most visited in the UK. The entrance fee to the castle is quite expensive (in my opinion, compared to what you can see there), £ 18. However, to see the large courtyard of the castle and the city panorama from the top of the cliff, you do not have to pay at all – you can enter it for free and spend as much time as you want. However, it will not be possible during the military show period, because there are stands for spectators installed at the time.

This blog covers just a few things you can see in the Scottish capital, I will continue posting about something else soon. If you are elsewhere in Scotland, you can also read my blog about the Scottish Highlands, the Isle of Skye in the west of Scotland and Stirling.

Glasgow

Glasgow is Scotland’s largest city, the fourth largest in the UK and the 27th largest in Europe. More than 600,000 people live in Glasgow today, even though the population was over 1.1 million before the middle of the 20th century. Since then, many people have moved to nearby towns and now in Grater Glasgow region live almost 1.8 million people, about a third of Scotland’s total population.

What to see

The city is well known for its university, founded in 1451. The university has 35,000 students from 140 countries, employs around 9,000 people and is one of the world’s top 100 universities.

University of Glasgow
University of Glasgow

There are also a number of other highly ranked universities in Glasgow where young people from many parts of the world come to study.

Although Glasgow has always been an industrial city, especially known for shipbuilding, it also has a very large cultural heritage. There are many museums, art galleries and exhibitions in the city, but the history can be felt simply by walking through its streets.
Popular attractions include the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum (free admission), the Riverside Museum, Glasgow Science Centre and George Square in the heart of the city. And of course, the central building of the University of Glasgow is worth a visit; both the exterior of the complex and the Hunterian Museum and Art Gallery inside are impressive (it can be visited free of charge).

Traffic

There is an underground transport in Glasgow – subway. It has only one round line and trains run in both directions. Interestingly, subway cars are much smaller than, for example, in London. It feels like miniature railway arrives to the platform.

It is best to get around the city by underground or train if you need to go somewhere more far away from the centre. Of course, buses also run across the city, however I have only used buses a few times in three years when I lived there. I did not like that busses are often be late, slow and also relatively expensive.

The city centre is walkable and has pedestrian-only streets.

Sauchiehall street in Glasgow
Sauchiehall street in Glasgow

Those who want to go to other destinations must remember that Glasgow has two main railway stations and you cannot get to where you want to go from both stations. The stations are about a 10-minute walk away, so trying to find a bus or taxi to get from one to another doesn’t make much sense. Of course, if you have a lot of luggage to handle, you just have to take a taxi.

There is also a bus station in the city centre, with buses to major cities and other destinations in Scotland and England. In general, intercity bus services in Scotland are good.

If you arrive at Glasgow Airport, almost the only cheap choice to get to the city is the bus that stops at the terminal. However, if you arrive after midnight, you may have to take a taxi, which is not cheap at all.

Where to go

There are many shops and cafes in the city centre, during the day you can walk through the pedestrian streets, see the central station from the inside and go to the eastern part of the city centre, which is not far away and has its own charm because there used to be city warehouses.

Evening in Partick, Glasgow
Evening in Partick, Glasgow

But the city centre is turning very busy in the evening, as many nightclubs are opening up and life is getting different. The most popular, in some ways even legendary, entertainment street is Sauchiehall Street. Life in the area is bustling until three o’clock in the morning, especially on weekends.

Glasgow is a very active city in general, where people relax after a day of work, and especially after a week of work, and it’s so different from many other Scottish cities that are much quieter. So if you are in Scotland, it is worth visiting Glasgow and enjoying its special charm.

Dalmatia – food and drinks

As usually in all our trips, Dalmatia in Croatia was no exception. Enjoying local food and drinks was an essential part of the trip.

We did this both ways by preparing at home products we bought on the market, sea urchins caught by ourselves in the sea, and also by visiting restaurants, cafes and vineyards.

Testament winery

It sounds strange – to go to Croatia to visit a business run by Scandinavians. But as it turned out later, the drink we had bought there ended up being the best on the trip.

Testament winery is located about 3 kilometres from the main road of the region D8, the nearest town is Zaboric. The basic idea of the winery is to combine technology with the knowhow of the best winemakers to create rich and complex drink from the Dalmatian region.

Wine kept in the sea
Wine kept in the sea

We had written down their address before travelling, just in case, but we did not plan to visit it; the tasting of three drinks costs more than 13 euros, which is not that little money at all. However, it happened to be the only chance to buy something to drink with dinner in the late afternoon.

The drink was of very good quality, we took it without tasting; just told the sellers what we are planning to cook for dinner. As it turned out, our purchase was very successful. In any case, we liked the grapes grown in northern Dalmatia better than the ones cultivated in the middle part, although, probably, a lot depends on the method of fermentation (more on that below).

Saricevi Dvori country pub

For a special and more substantial dinner, we chose the Saricevi Dvori country restaurant, which is located further from the sea between Grebastica and Rogoznica (you have to drive at least three kilometres along mountain roads with a beautiful view towards the Adriatic coast).

Like most restaurants in Croatia, this is a family restaurant. It prepares Dalmatian dishes according to traditional methods, using cooking recipes proven over the centuries. And of course, hot dishes are prepared in the large ovens that are found in every self-respecting restaurant in Croatia.

The restaurant is proud of the gold medal won for the particularly high quality of the food. And what’s positive, high quality in this case does not mean a high price – after a well-enjoyed dinner, the bill was very reasonable.

It is offered to wash down everything eaten with the local famous Babic red fermented grape juice, but we were not particularly excited about it.

Two things I especially like about the Croatian menu – they eat a lot of seafood, a lot of meat and even more meat. The main dishes are prepared (fried) in the oven in large dishes, the name of the dish would normally include word ‘peke’ at the end.

If you happen to be nearby, I recommend you to try the oven-baked octopus (‘Hobotnica ispod peke’ in their language), veal (Teletina ispod peke) or mutton (Janjetina ispod peke). The mutton has a lot of fat, this should be taken into consideration if you want to order it; pork is also tasty, of course, but you can’t get octopus everywhere across the country. Usually you can order fried or grilled squid and mussels – almost in every restaurant in Croatia.

You can also taste different types of goulash and meat platters, but it’s all too much for one occasion, unfortunately. This restaurant also does their best for the well-being of the vegetarians (but not vegan) audience by including a couple of appropriate dishes in the menu, although we didn’t even notice such audience in Croatian restaurants – majority are enjoying seafood and meet dishes.

Matosin vineyards

Of course, it depends on everyone’s taste and habits, but we prefer French and Italian drinks. But that doesn’t mean you can’t try something else, so we went to the mountains for a drink tasting.

In one of the evenings, we decided to go to the Matosin vineyards, which are located quite far in the mountains and the driving is on country roads, even with only one lane in both directions. The place is remote, so we didn’t even meet anyone driving towards us.

Sunset in the west of Croatia
Sunset in the west of Croatia

This was probably the longest trip away from the regional D8 road, more than 10 kilometres. I have to say right away – the drink is okay, but not in our style. However, the place is fantastic. We also saw the sunset there. The sun setting in the Adriatic Sea over the grape gardens – something fantastic to watch. It also contributed to the positive memories about this place.

I mentioned earlier that I would say something more about the drinks of this region. The main difference is that local Babic grapes are grown there. They may be very good, but as we found out, the juice fermentation methods differ from those usually used in Europe. The main difference – the juice fermentation process takes place in barrels, which by its nature is a closed container (I don’t remember what this method is called).

As a result, the drink smells and tastes a bit like hydrogen sulphide. To be honest, it only has been worse in Japan, where the drink had a definite acetone smell.
As I said, it’s about personal taste preference. I know there are people who really like this type of drink.

Istria and Krk island

Istrian Peninsula

The Istrian peninsula is one of Croatia’s many peninsulas, but it differs from many others because it is located in the north of the country. It borders Slovenia and Italy. In general, the territory of the peninsula is shared by these three countries, but the majority (almost 90%) belongs to Croatia. Italians call the peninsula Istria.

The Istrian peninsula is the largest peninsula on the Adriatic Sea. In order to understand more about its dimensions, I will just mention the distance from Pula to the Slovenian border is around 60 kilometres, and to the Italian border 80 kilometres in a straight line (it will definitely be much more when driving on the road). Istria is also known for the fact that truffles grow there – mushrooms that are used as an addition to food, especially pasta dishes.

Dunes in the north of Croatia
Dunes in the north of Croatia

The largest city in the Croatian part is Pula, located in the very south of the peninsula, but the Slovenian city of Koper and the Italian city of Trieste are even larger.

Pula has less than 60,000 inhabitants, it is best known for the ancient Roman buildings that are still there. The Pula Amphitheatre is one of the best preserved Roman amphitheatres.

We didn’t spend much time on the peninsula, but we found a place selling truffle oil and other products made from truffles. It was worth a look and the prices were pleasantly different from those elsewhere in Europe.

Island of Krk

I started this story with the Istrian peninsula, but the trip itself on this occasion was to the island of Krk. Croatians love these combinations of letters; a popular tourist attraction with a similar name is the Krka National Park in Dalmatia, known for its impressive cascades of waterfalls.

The first, one might even say shocking, impression was driving across a huge bridge to the island (this bridge has tolls). The view and the feelings were grand. Although there were no less impressive views before the bridge, when we went down the rocky serpentines to access the bridge ramp. The only thing that can be said is that people with imagination worked hard to come up with such an engineering masterpiece.

The island of Krk differs from many other Croatian islands because it is a very green, it is also the most populated island in the Adriatic Sea. About 20 thousand people live on the island.

Rocky beach on Krk
Rocky beach on Krk

Like many territories in Europe, Krk was once part of the Roman Empire, but later it was included in the Byzantine Empire. At the beginning of the eleventh century, the island was conquered by the Venetians and, with a short break at the beginning of the 12th century, it was part of the Republic of Venice for the next seven centuries.

In the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, Krk belonged to Austria and Italy for a while, but since the Second World War it belongs to Croatia.

The aforementioned bridge to the island of Krk was built in 1980 and is one of the longest reinforced concrete bridges in the world (its length is 1.4 kilometres).

Although the beaches are mostly rocky, the island of Krk is very popular among tourists. It is located in the north of the Adriatic Sea, so tourists from Germany and Austria can get there very quickly (less than a four-hour drive from the south of Austria).

Rijeka Airport is located on the island, although Rijeka itself is on the mainland. Rijeka is the third largest city in Croatia.

The island has quite a long and interesting history, but the main purpose of visiting it is to relax by the sea, so this time, that’s all – pack your suitcase and go yourself to enjoy it.

From Riga to Croatia by car

I have already written quite a lot about traveling to Croatia, but here I will summarize how to get there by car from Latvia.

Even though we have been flying everywhere for the last decade, we have mostly driven by our car to Croatia. We have also seen other cars with Baltic and Polish license plates in Croatia, so we are by no means the only ones and this information may be useful to someone else.

Seafood dish
Seafood dish

The usual route is as follows: Riga – Warsaw (Poland) – Bratislava (Slovakia) – Graz (Austria) – Maribor (Slovenia) – Zagreb (Croatia). This is also the option offered by Google Maps. What happens after arrival to Zagreb is entirely up to you, depending on where else you have decided to go. There are people who prefer to drive through the Czech Republic, but staying overnight in the Czech Republic (not to mention Austria) can be quite expensive.

If you are going to relax by the sea, then you should take into account that it is practically impossible to visit all the regions of Croatia at once. The country is stretched from north to south and there is a highway that connects it all. But once you get off the highway, driving is very slow.

I would say that there are three main regions in Croatia that are worth visiting – the north, the Istrian peninsula and the island of Krk, the south of Dalmatia, including Dubrovnik, the Peljesac peninsula and the island of Korcula, and central Dalmatia – Split, Trogir, other smaller towns and seaside villages.

Driving from Riga

We started driving at the time when it was a habit to drive through Poland during night. Now a lot has changed in Poland, so you can drive through it during the day. Driving at night has the advantage that it is possible to drive a longer first part of the distance. On the first day, we usually tried to drive at least 1200 kilometres.

In any case, it will take at least ten hours to get to Warsaw from Riga, so if you leave around midnight, you will be in Warsaw around ten in the morning. We usually chose hotel or apartment somewhere in Slovakia. You still have to drive quite a long distance from Polish capital, about 500 kilometres, which is at least 6 – 7 hours. It should be noted that it is also necessary to stop to eat, relax and stretch.

We usually took thermoses with hot water and dry soups with us, so that we didn’t have to only eat dry snacks. Although, we usually got off at least once in Poland to have a late breakfast or lunch at one of the roadside restaurants.

Overnight stay in Slovakia

We used the accommodation to stay at night because we were traveling with children and it would have been quite cruel to ask them to spend the night in the car. After driving more than 1000 kilometres, you need to sleep in a normal bed. You must also remember to replenish the hot water supply for next day’s soups before departure!

We usually looked for hotels (guest houses) in Slovakia on the Internet somewhere between Zilin and Trencin, a little off the highway. When it comes to the motorway, remember that in Slovakia (as well as in the Czech Republic) you have to buy a vignette. Inspections are not frequent, but if you are caught without a vignette, you may end up with paying quite large fine.

Scenery in Croatia near Zadar
Scenery in Croatia near Zadar

Now it is possible to buy a Slovak e-vignette online in advance, you can pay with payment card or PayPal. Even in Austria, to drive on the motorways, you need to buy a vignette; Austrian vignette for 10 days (minimum time) costs 9.6 euros (summer 2022).

Slovakian vignette for ten days costs 15.8 euros, but if you choose to drive through the Czech Republic, you can save a little – for 10 days there, a vignette costs 12.5 euros, but other costs, if you stop, will probably be higher.

Spending night in Zagreb

The last section of the route from Slovakia to Zagreb is practically only driving on motorways. Google Maps offer to drive through Hungary as the main route, but I don’t recommend it, because the roads are rather boring and driving through Hungary just doesn’t excite me (we’ve tried it ourselves).

Since you can get to Croatia (Zagreb) in about seven to nine hours from Slovakia, we did not rush to leave early in the morning. Accommodations usually offer breakfast and you also want to slow down a bit before leaving. And the main thing is that it is not even possible to go anywhere further than Zagreb during that day, unless your destination is the island of Krk or the Istrian peninsula.

In that case, you can pass Zagreb going through Slovenia in the direction of Rijeka. It will take up to 10 hours in total then.

Sunset in Croatia
Sunset in Croatia

If the destination of your trip to Croatia is central or southern Dalmatia, then staying overnight in Zagreb is worth it. Both in the city and its outskirts, there are many hotels for good price. It should only be noted that they are all very busy during the summer season; the hotel should be booked well in advance when the trip is being planned. This also applies to all other hotels in Croatia during the summer period.

From Riga to London by coach and train

We can travel long distances quickly and relatively cheaply, especially if it is possible to get to the destination with one of the low-cost airlines. However, sometimes, for one reason or another, you must travel by land.

The easiest way, of course, is to get into your car and drive. But not always there is such an option. Then we need to look at the opportunities offered by other means of commercial transport, for example, to travel by coach or train.

So, after spending about a month in Latvia, we boarded a coach in Riga to go to Berlin in Germany. Our final destination was London, this was only the first leg of the trip.

Inside Ecolines bus
Inside Ecolines bus

It must be mentioned that we were planning the trip a while in advance and had purchased tickets for all sections of the trip several months before the trip itself. This is mainly because train prices in Europe become more expensive as the departure date approaches. In the end, this helped us to save a considerable amount of money.

Fortunately, we were able to plan the trip in a way that our waiting times between getting from one transport to another were quite short – just enough to change stations or departure gates.

The first day – Riga – Warsaw

To get from Riga to Berlin, we booked the Ecolines (Estonian carrier) coach, which departs from the Riga bus station. We hadn’t travelled by bus for a long time, and we also had such a long journey by coach for the first time. The ticket price from Riga to Berlin was about 70 euros per person. Departure from Riga was scheduled for 11 am and arrival in Berlin at seven the next morning, a bit more than 21 hours with a few rather short stops on the way.

As there were not many stops planned during the trip, we took a couple of bottles of water and some food for a couple of meals. The carrier offered the opportunity to buy sandwiches, but only a few travellers used this option, most passengers had taken their food with them.

Bus station in Lithuania
Bus station in Lithuania

The first stop was Panevezys in Lithuania. The coach stopped there for just a few minutes. We got an opportunity to get out and stretch our legs in Vilnius, where we stopped for about fifteen to 20 minutes. There also was a similar a bit longer stop for stretching legs in Kaunas.
After departing Kaunas, we went to Mariampol, a town near Lithuanian – Polish border.

When we arrived in Mariampol, it was already around sunset time. I wanted to buy something to eat, and a bottle of water, however, I only got a bottle of water. Unfortunately, there was not any takeaway option for food to buy in the bus station buffet. We stood at this stop for at least about twenty minutes, as it was possible to stretch our legs after the seven-hour journey.

The next stop was in the Polish city of Białystok after a few hours after departing Mariampol. In general, the journey at this stage was the most difficult, because it was raining outside, it was dark, but I didn’t want to sleep yet. Fortunately, each seat on the bus has its TV screen and you can watch movies, the selection of those was surprisingly good.

From Białystok we headed west and arrived in Warsaw shortly after eleven in the evening. The road was much better after we left Białystok, mostly a motorway.

Warsaw

I must mention that when we left Riga, the war in Ukraine had started a few days before that, but we did not notice any specific changes along the way, although at some point we were less than 200 kilometres from the Ukrainian border. However, arriving at the Warsaw bus station, the feeling of the war was somewhere around.

There were police cars near the station with the emergency lights on. There was a bus serving as a mobile information point for refugees from Ukraine. Free food and other things were available at the station. All this made the feelings quite unpleasant, for the first time we felt that there was a war somewhere nearby.

Bus station in Poland
Bus station in Poland

This time, the bus stopped at the station for quite a while, and we left the station only around midnight while the baggage was loaded and all those who wanted to travel got on the bus. Some people even did not get tickets because the coach was full at that point. It seemed that some of the riders may have been those fleeing from Ukraine to continue their escape trip to Germany.

Then the journey by coach continued through the rest of Poland and the most sensible thing to do at this time was to sleep. The next stop was planned to only be in Berlin after about seven more hours of driving. From Berlin, we planned to immediately go to Brussels by train.