Istria and Krk island

Istrian Peninsula

The Istrian peninsula is one of Croatia’s many peninsulas, but it differs from many others because it is located in the north of the country. It borders Slovenia and Italy. In general, the territory of the peninsula is shared by these three countries, but the majority (almost 90%) belongs to Croatia. Italians call the peninsula Istria.

The Istrian peninsula is the largest peninsula on the Adriatic Sea. In order to understand more about its dimensions, I will just mention the distance from Pula to the Slovenian border is around 60 kilometres, and to the Italian border 80 kilometres in a straight line (it will definitely be much more when driving on the road). Istria is also known for the fact that truffles grow there – mushrooms that are used as an addition to food, especially pasta dishes.

Dunes in the north of Croatia
Dunes in the north of Croatia

The largest city in the Croatian part is Pula, located in the very south of the peninsula, but the Slovenian city of Koper and the Italian city of Trieste are even larger.

Pula has less than 60,000 inhabitants, it is best known for the ancient Roman buildings that are still there. The Pula Amphitheatre is one of the best preserved Roman amphitheatres.

We didn’t spend much time on the peninsula, but we found a place selling truffle oil and other products made from truffles. It was worth a look and the prices were pleasantly different from those elsewhere in Europe.

Island of Krk

I started this story with the Istrian peninsula, but the trip itself on this occasion was to the island of Krk. Croatians love these combinations of letters; a popular tourist attraction with a similar name is the Krka National Park in Dalmatia, known for its impressive cascades of waterfalls.

The first, one might even say shocking, impression was driving across a huge bridge to the island (this bridge has tolls). The view and the feelings were grand. Although there were no less impressive views before the bridge, when we went down the rocky serpentines to access the bridge ramp. The only thing that can be said is that people with imagination worked hard to come up with such an engineering masterpiece.

The island of Krk differs from many other Croatian islands because it is a very green, it is also the most populated island in the Adriatic Sea. About 20 thousand people live on the island.

Rocky beach on Krk
Rocky beach on Krk

Like many territories in Europe, Krk was once part of the Roman Empire, but later it was included in the Byzantine Empire. At the beginning of the eleventh century, the island was conquered by the Venetians and, with a short break at the beginning of the 12th century, it was part of the Republic of Venice for the next seven centuries.

In the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, Krk belonged to Austria and Italy for a while, but since the Second World War it belongs to Croatia.

The aforementioned bridge to the island of Krk was built in 1980 and is one of the longest reinforced concrete bridges in the world (its length is 1.4 kilometres).

Although the beaches are mostly rocky, the island of Krk is very popular among tourists. It is located in the north of the Adriatic Sea, so tourists from Germany and Austria can get there very quickly (less than a four-hour drive from the south of Austria).

Rijeka Airport is located on the island, although Rijeka itself is on the mainland. Rijeka is the third largest city in Croatia.

The island has quite a long and interesting history, but the main purpose of visiting it is to relax by the sea, so this time, that’s all – pack your suitcase and go yourself to enjoy it.

Mainau Island in Germany

Sun, flowers, and spring

The next morning, after the usual grey April day in Riga, we were awakened by the rays of the sun – our break in Germany had begun exceptionally well! From the window we had a fantastic view towards vineyards and all kinds of flowering shrubs and trees; we felt like on a real spring holiday! We planned to visit Baden–Baden and at the end of our trip visit Mainau Island.

To enjoy these fantastic changes, immediately after breakfast we went for a walk around the town and without realizing it, reached the next town. The Easter morning service had just ended, the clock was approaching noon, and the local Germans were slowly gathering for family lunches at local pubs. Great tradition – in most cases, at least three generations of people gathered around the tables.

Mainau orchids
Mainau orchids

Before moving on to Mainau Island in Germany, after visiting the thermal pools and sauna complex in Baden-Baden, we walked around the city, which has both its unique charm and something special, such as the German order, which strangely coexists harmoniously with the Russian language heard in many places.

In the holiday complexes do not be surprised that you will be spoken in Russian, because some of the service staff came from Eastern Europe in the late eighties or early nineties. This short break in Germany was coming to an end and we had to move on.

Mainau Island

As I said before, this episode of a short break in Germany is from another journey. The island of Mainau is in a completely different corner of Germany we visited returning from Switzerland. The region around Konstanz did initially give an impression of a remote not that exciting area, however, the beautiful island successfully dispelled that first impression.

Building on Mainau island
Building on Mainau island

The description here is not a comprehensive one, because the island of Mainau must be enjoyed looking at it and the impressions gained are difficult to transfer in words. Here are some photos from the visit below.

Flowers all around

There is a botanical garden on the island and the visiting time was specially chosen for spring; all the spring flowers were blooming there. The island is not large; it is possible to walk around it in a couple of hours. However, it takes much more time because the created lawns, greenery and flower beds are admirable, and you can’t just walk without eating in one of the cafes during your visit.

At the beginning, the price for a visit to the island (adult ticket 17 euros, family ticket 34 euros) seemed to be quite high, however after visiting the exposition we realized that the work invested in creating and maintaining the island is huge and requires a lot of investment.

Butterfly in Mainau tropical garden
Butterfly in Mainau tropical garden

Tropical and butterfly houses

Among the gardens on the island are several buildings with shops and various expositions. The most outstanding is a tropical house with a huge collection of orchids – it is so beautiful! The other very special place is a butterfly house, where butterflies of various sizes and colours live in tropical jungle conditions.

Western Estonia

Sightseeing tour to the western part of Estonia

This was a corporate trip by bus together with work colleagues to the Estonian islands. It was a short weekend sightseeing tour to western Estonia to relax, have some fun and look around. Our destination was Saaremaa island, with a short stop in the summer capital of Estonia – town Parnu.

The border between Latvia and Estonia

You may cross the border between Latvia and Estonia using main road E67. However, there is an interesting alternative – turn left just before the Estonian border to the small town Latvian town of Ainazi. Driving through the town you may be surprised that after a short period, you will see a road sign showing that you are passing the state border.

Just before the border, there is a small parking place. If you stop there, you can go for a short walk to the old mole (located in Latvia just a few hundred metres from the Estonian border) and enjoy the beautiful landscape.

Seaside resort Parnu

The next stop we made was in Parnu (to be honest, nothing was interesting before that point except some recreation areas near the beach of Riga Gulf, still far away from E67). It was the end of the weekend as well as the end of the summer; the town was very quiet. Most cafes and restaurants are closed or without visitors.

Parnu town itself is quite nice, especially the old part of it – worth wandering around a bit. If you go from Riga (Latvia) to Tallinn (Estonia), this is a good place to take a short break and enjoy some coffee before driving another 130 kilometres (80 miles) to reach Tallinn. We did the same before continuing our trip to the Estonian islands.

Ferry to Estonian islands
Ferry to Estonian islands

Estonian islands

Saaremaa is the biggest Estonian island and there is regular ferry traffic between the mainland and the island. The ferry terminal is in the small village of Virtsu and arrives in Kuivastu on Muhu island (Muhu island is located between the mainland and Saaremaa island; to reach Saaremaa you should cross Muhu at first).

The journey lasts about 25 minutes – just enough to have some beer and snacks available on the board of the ferry. Here is the ferry timetable for this and another line connecting the Estonian mainland with the islands. In general, during business hours ferry departs every 35 minutes, two boats are operational on this route ships are about 97 metres long, 18 metres wide, draft of 4 m). Saaremaa island forms the main barrier between the Gulf of Riga and the Baltic Sea.

The highest point of the island is 54 metres above sea level. Old sagas talk about conflicts between islanders and Vikings. Saaremaa was among the wealthiest counties of ancient Estonia and the home of Estonian pirates sometimes called the Eastern Vikings. Nowadays Saaremaa is known as a good recreation place with unique nature and a lot of sights. It has retained its uniqueness due to its location and insulation.

The cultural heritage of Muhu island

Exposotion of Estonian heritage
Exposotion of Estonian heritage

After arrival in Kuivastu on Muhu island you can find Koguva village, which is located near Kuivastu – Kuressaare road. Koguva is the best-preserved village of the 19th century in Estonia. Some of the buildings date even from the 18th century. You can observe the traditional living style of Estonians as it was a long time ago – living and farmhouses, storehouses, saunas, barns and summer kitchens.

Saaremaa sightseeing

Saaremaa has an area of 2700 square kilometres (about 1050 square miles) and its population is about 35 thousand people. In the villages, there are still stone fences and houses with thatched roofs. The symbols of Saaremaa are windmills, junipers and home-brewed beer. An interesting site on the island is the Kaali meteorite craters formed after an accident approximately 650 – 700 BC (explored in 1937).

The largest of the craters measures 110 metres in diameter, the mass of meteorites was from 20 to 80 tonnes. The main crater has a depth of about 22 metres. If driving in the right direction you can easily find this site following road signs (it is located 18 kilometres from Kuressaare towards Kuivastu).

Capital of Saaremaa – Kuressaare

The last stop of our trip to the Estonian islands was Kuresaare. There is only one town on Saaremaa island, which is Kuressaare – the capital of the island. The most important, and I would say the most exciting sight of Kuressaare, is the bishop’s castle.

Capital town of Saaremaa Kuressaare
Capital town of Saaremaa Kuressaare

The castle was built in the late 14th century, the basic plan of the building is a square with the length of each side about 43 metres. Among the medieval castles in the Baltic countries, this is the one that has survived very well.

A few words about Saaremaa hotels. Most of them are comfortable Spa hotels built very recently. You can expect to have access to the pool, sauna, bar and other facilities. However, be aware that in early autumn there may not be heating operating in rooms and walls are extremely thin to both keep the rooms warm and silent.