French Alps, Provence and Rocamadour – Travel notes, food and more

From Alpine Peaks to Provencal Sun: A Three-Week French Adventure

Everyone has an opinion about France. For us, it’s a country that keeps calling us back, but no trip was more memorable than our epic three-week tour in about a decade ago. This journey had it all: the heart-pounding heights of the French Alps, the sun-drenched charm of Provence, and the cliffside drama of Rocamadour.

We structured our adventure like a perfect menu. The first act was a robust blend of majestic mountains, world-class food and wine, and French Riviera was a soothing digestif of beach relaxation and pure, unadulterated fun. The second act, along the Atlantic coast and ending in Paris. And where better to start this gourmet pilgrimage than in the very heart of Burgundian wine country?

A Taste of Burgundy in Beaune

Our French odyssey began with a tasting in Beaune, the illustrious capital of the Burgundy wine region. We based ourselves at the Stars Beaune Hotel – a fantastic find that offered great comfort for the price and, most importantly, was perfectly situated just off the main road after a long day’s drive and a late evening arrival.

Chamonix: Reaching for the Sky

Fuelled by the finest Pinot Noirs, our next stop was the legendary Chamonix Mont-Blanc. We pitched our tent at a campsite just a few hundred metres from the cable car that whisks you to one of the most breathtaking vistas in the world – the Aiguille du Midi.

Standing on the viewing platform at 3,842 metres is an experience that truly steals your breath. Just before you lies the roof of Western Europe: the majestic, snow-capped Mont Blanc (4,807 m), surrounded by a seemingly endless sea of Alpine peaks. The town itself is a gateway to an adventurer’s paradise. The well-marked trails offer hiking and climbing for all abilities, though we’d strongly advise proper footwear and sticking to the easier routes if you’re not fully equipped.

Provence: A Wave of Heat and Scent

After the crisp mountain air, our descent into Provence was a dramatic and welcome shock to the system. Within just a few hundred kilometres, the temperature soared to a glorious 35°C. While we’d missed the famous lavender bloom by the end of August, we were rewarded with a different kind of treasure – the bounty of local gardens.

We’ll never forget the charming, French-speaking lady from whom we bought sun-ripened fruits and vegetables – a transaction achieved with plenty of smiles and gesticulation. Our next stop was Grasse, the historic perfume capital. Although the Fragonard museum was closed, we took a fascinating (and free) guided tour of their factory. Unsurprisingly, our collection of French liquid souvenirs soon expanded to include some exquisite, original fragrances.

Then, it was time for pure bliss in Nice. For two days, we surrendered to the French Riviera. The sun was so hot, the Mediterranean so inviting, that our cameras remained untouched. The world simply melted away as we lounged on the beach, completely absorbed in the moment.

An Ancient Marvel: The Pont du Gard

Tearing ourselves away from the coast, we headed west towards the Atlantic. About 300 km from Nice, near Avignon, we made an essential stop at the Pont du Gard. This ancient Roman aqueduct bridge, built in the 1st century AD, is a monumental feat of engineering. Walking across this UNESCO World Heritage site, you can’t help but feel the weight of history spanning the Gardon River.

Rocamadour: A Town on a Cliff

Our final major stop in this part of the journey was the spectacular cliffside village of Rocamadour. A site of pilgrimage since the Middle Ages, thanks to its revered Black Madonna, it now draws visitors simply for its awe-inspiring setting. The main sanctuary is built almost vertically into the limestone cliff face – a truly magnificent sight.

We stayed at Camping Ferme Brache, located conveniently next to the town. The surrounding area was a treasure trove of attractions, from a fascinating demonstration of the full cheese-making cycle (with tasting, of course!) to goose farms and the open-air monkey park, La Foret des Singes. A day trip to the exquisite medieval town of Sarlat was another highlight. Its famous food market was an absolute feast for the senses, explaining why this town of 10,000 welcomes over a million visitors each year.

This journey through the Alps and Provence was just the beginning. The adventure continued on the Atlantic coast, where a different side of France awaited.

You can continue reading about our experience on the Atlantic coast of France during this trip. Another exciting trip we enjoyed quite recently was Easter in France.