A Coast in Flux: New Developments on the Bulgarian Black Sea
After the serene visit to the monastery, we continued our journey towards the coast, bound for the bustling city of Burgas. (You can read more about our entire first trip and our adventures with Bulgarian wine here!). As the second-largest city on the Bulgarian Black Sea coast after Varna, Burgas promised a vibrant urban energy.
The drive from Plovdiv to Burgas was a thrilling preview of the country’s burgeoning wine scene. We passed countless newly established vineyards, their neat rows of vines creating a stunning, impressive patchwork across the landscape – a truly captivating sight!
We didn’t linger long in Burgas itself, just a quick stop for petrol and a drive-through to get a feel for the place. Our real destination lay to the south, along the sun-drenched coastline, where we were eager to explore a mix of ancient seaside villages and modern new resorts.
What greeted us was nothing short of astonishing! The entire coast was a hive of activity. It seemed every tiny village with a coastal view had been transformed into a massive, busy building site. We recalled that back in 2007, even in our home country, the market was flooded with offers to buy new property in Bulgaria.
The reality, however, was often surprising. A significant portion of these new buildings were perched dramatically on cliffs, far from the advertised sandy beaches. While they boasted being “close to the water,” it was often impossible to see how one could actually access it, with no beach in sight for miles!
There are, of course, exceptions, but they were fewer than we had hoped. The picture was much the same when we drove north from Burgas. The only difference was the sheer scale of construction, often sprouting from previously uninhabited areas. A word of caution for fellow road-trippers: petrol stations were curiously scarce on this route, and we had a rather nerve-wracking moment where we almost ran out of fuel!
Coastal villages
On a more positive note, we were delighted to find villages where the charm of the old world still persists. Some places, like the beautiful Sozopol, masterfully blend historic architecture with new developments. In other areas, you can still feel the unique heritage and atmosphere of the mid-to-late 20th century, a fascinating glimpse into the recent past.
The history here is profound. Some coastal villages, such as Sveti Vlas, have roots stretching back to the 2nd century AD, first settled by Thracians and Greeks. Interestingly, Sveti Vlas is the only spot on the entire Bulgarian coast where the beaches face directly south, and it has only recently blossomed into a popular resort town for tourists.
The Famous Resort of Varna
Following the coastline and passing yet more construction, we drove to our final Bulgarian stop: the famous Black Sea resort of Varna. We spent a full day exploring. The town was pleasant and our hotel comfortable, yet we were constantly struck by a curious, nostalgic feeling, as if we’d been transported back to the 1980s.
That said, Varna has wholeheartedly embraced tourism, with a wonderful array of restaurants and shops showcasing superb local produce. For me, one of Bulgaria’s most iconic products is its rose-based perfumery. We visited several excellent shops, such as Zornitza and Rose Valley, where we found exquisite products to bring home. Another fantastic offering in Varna is its jewellery, which provides incredible value for the quality.
Overall Impressions of Bulgaria
We decided to leave the country via an alternative route, heading to Ruse. Here, a bridge across the mighty Danube connects Bulgaria with Romania – and I may be wrong, but I believe it was the only bridge across the river linking the two countries at that time.
So, to finalise my story about our first trip to Bulgaria, I would say this: it is a country of breathtaking and interesting landscapes, delicious and high-quality wines, excellent food specialities, fascinating traditions, and wonderfully open-minded people. It may not be a rich country in terms of material prosperity, but it is incredibly wealthy in character.
Beyond the wonderful emotions and positive experiences, there was a clear practical benefit – we took full advantage of the graceful prices in Bulgarian shops, stocking up on a treasure trove of sweets and perfumes to bring home.
Our next visit in 2024 would come after Bulgaria’s transformation into a full member of the EU, and we were excited to see how the country had evolved.