Sun, Saints, and Seafood: A Croatian Coastal Adventure
Our trip along the Dalmatian coast delivered some truly unforgettable moments, and our stop at the Primošten Mala Raduča beach was a particular highlight. Consistently ranked among Croatia’s top ten beaches, it’s a real gem. What makes it so special, you ask? For a start, it boasts the rare luxury of stationary sun umbrellas – a true blessing in a country where they’re not the norm. It’s the perfect spot for a blissful, lazy day by the sparkling Adriatic.
The region is justly famous for its exquisite wines, and incredibly, a local vineyard nestled near the town has earned a place on the prestigious UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list. May qualify as must-visit for any oenophile, although we did not do it.
Just across the bay, another fascinating sight awaits: the statue of Our Lady of Loreto. We spotted her serene silhouette from a high point in the city after a rewarding climb up to St. George’s Church. The view was a tempting preview of what was to come.
Exploring the town itself was an absolute delight, particularly the charming labyrinth of streets on the island section. It had that wonderful, bustling resort-town vibe, packed with inviting cafes, tempting restaurants, and quirky little shops.
A Pilgrimage for the Views: Our Lady of Loreto
While the statue of Our Lady of Loreto is a significant Catholic pilgrimage site, you don’t have to be religious to appreciate a good adventure. The drive up the rocky track was an experience in itself, and the statue, perched majestically on the hilltop, was truly impressive. But the real showstopper was the panoramic view from the very top. Simply breathtaking!
We visited the place during a heatwave, but fortune smiled on us – we discovered a wonderfully shady bar right there, aptly named ‘Madonna’s Bar and Shop’ (we had a chuckle at the name!). It’s the perfect pitstop for a cold drink or a restorative ice cream before you take your time soaking in the magnificent landscape. A handy tip: there’s a good, free, asphalted car park next to the site, from which it’s just a couple of hundred metres’ climb to the statue.
The Great Rogoznica Fish Hunt
The next day, after arriving in Sevid, we embarked on a mission with a very practical purpose: to buy the freshest possible seafood for lunch and dinner. Our destination was the nearby seaside town of Rogoznica.
We headed straight for the central market, which sells everything from agricultural produce to the day’s catch. Our timing, however, was slightly off. It was mid-June, and we were told the proper seafood season hadn’t quite kicked off. The fish stalls were, to our dismay, completely empty. The locals advised us to try again in a week or two.
Not to be deterred, we made the most of it and loaded up on fantastically fresh local tomatoes, potatoes, strawberries, and other delicious goods. But we were still on the hunt for fish.
A bit of prior research had revealed a local fish farm, Klismar ribogojilište Zečevo, on the other side of the peninsula. With nothing to lose, we decided to go straight to the source and ‘catch’ our own dinner, so to speak.
The drive was rather extreme again. A single-track, rocky, unpaved lane meant for two-way traffic, complete with hairpin bends, serpentines, and steep drops. All this in just a few kilometres! It was a white-knuckle ride, but one that turned out to be a resounding success.
We found a simple shed where a couple of local blokes were minding stacks of fish boxes. The sea bass and bream were incredibly fresh, resting on ice. I can’t recall the exact price, but it was a fantastically fair deal. We paid, collected our glistening prize, and headed back to our accommodation, taking a scenic detour through the outskirts of Rogoznica.
I’m thrilled to report that our grilled fish feast that evening was an absolute triumph – incredibly fresh, flaky, and bursting with flavour. It was the perfect, authentic end to a day of true Dalmatian adventure.